Foursquare 14 year old (2001) – Kill Devil

What is it? Molasses based rum blended from rum produced on a twin column still and a pot still, at the Foursquare distillery in Barbados, making this a Single Blended Rum. As with (pretty much) all Foursquare rums, this rum was blended after distillation but before ageing and therefore the marrying and full maturation has been done in-cask. This rum is a single cask rum that was distilled in August 2001, aged for 14 years (I can’t say if this was tropically or not, as there are no details) and then bottled by Hunter Laing for their Kill Devil range of rums as one of 353 bottles produced.

Natural colour, not chill filtered and bottled at 46% abv.

Sugar? No way.

Nose: Oh, now, hang on. Very interesting indeed! Not what I was expecting at all; quite a savoury and phenolic Foursquare we have here with boot polish, smoked almonds, printer toner, warm paper straight of out said laser printer, beeswax and black olives. Under this there is that lovely Foursquare oaky toffee, smoked coconut, figs and vanilla custard. A tiny green banana and a touch of clementine (of all things) show up. Hmmm, am I sure that this is blended? There is a lot of pot still in this bad boy that’s for sure.

Palate: Perfect mouth feel, oily and juicy. Mirrors the nose and starts off with extra virgin olive oil, a licked stamp, marzipan and candle wax. Then comes the spicy oak, but the sweet notes are dirty sweet, if that makes sense; tobacco toffee, salted vanilla cream, spiced coconut oil, it’s almost got this Umami taste to it. The back of the palate has that little green banana, but it’s ripened a little more and there is that lovely lift of clementine zing and orange caramel at the end.

Finish: Long, glorious, salty, sweet, phenolic, chewy – all things that don’t go together but put them together and they sing – like sweet and salted popcorn or a smoked citrus fruit. There are drying tannins and a bizarre Earl Grey/Lapsang Souchong love-child of a tea. Again right at the end there is this lemon’y, orange’y caramel fudge note that is beautiful. I’ve struggled to cover off all the flavours of the palate and finish here, there is simply too much going on for my brain to comprehend. It’s exactly like Umami, you can’t explain to someone what it is or what it tastes like, but you taste it and you know.

Thoughts? Crickey, now this shows how damn good Foursquare rums really are. Take a single cask from anywhere else, get a mix of cask, oily savoury and sweet flavours, and have it all blend harmoniously – go on, I dare you, find me one. This is a single cask. How the hell are all these flavours in here and blending so well. Most distilleries would struggle to produce something like this from a massive blend of casks and here we are with 1 single cask of Foursquare. The ability of Richard Seale to produce rums like this, blend the rums before they go into the wood, and get a result like this is astonishing. The guy is a wizard.

I’m putting my head above the parapet here, but this is one of my favourite Foursquare rums, it beats a lot of the official bottlings for me, and that says something. Now, it’s not going to be to everyone’s tastes and it’s not the “classic” Foursquare you’d expect, but as a rum is brilliant.

£55?!? That’s all that this cost me? Take all my money, please, just take it.

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